Remember a few weeks ago when I was chatting to a local surf lifesaver about rips… while watching my son being battered about by the waves…?
Well, since then a top bloke called Dr. Rob Brander (a surf scientist) has steered me in the direction of his website, called (would you believe) “The Science of the Surf” … (and I thought I was being clever thinking of that blog title)
So please take a look at his fantastic short video, and stay really safe!